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Adam Platt on Isa and Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria; Foodie-ism As Youth Culture (nymag)
**Isa.**
In this week's _New York_, Adam Platt crosses the East River to Isa, "Taavo
Somer's [Peels, Freemans] quirky, unpredictable, singularly interesting new
Williamsburg restaurant." Our critic notes that Somer and chef Ignacio Mattos
(Il Buco) have "exchanged high rents and glitter for the freedom to pursue
their own quirky ideas and experiments at a languid, agreeably neighborly
pace." That means "highly refined lumberjack food," including "a sizzling flap
of pork steak garnished with yogurt and sprigs of purslane," and a winning
"sugary confit of duck leg." However, it's not all winners: Platt also
encounters an "inert lump of codfish," and a "rubber-skinned chicken"; the
restaurant receives two stars.
Platt also visits Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria, "the popular, painstakingly
rusticated market-restaurant spinÂoff ... Il Buco." A market in front sells
artisanal goods to take home, while the restaurant in back serves "beautifully
balanced pastas" and "ribbons of roast porchetta (best enjoyed at lunchtime
stuffed inside a filone roll)." However, fried rabbit is overly bony and a
recent artichoke dish was "soggy." This one also receives two stars.
Meanwhile, Michael Idov delves into the burgeoning youth foodie culture,
asking, "When did young people start spending 25 percent of ...
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